Foreword

Every once in a while, when your hectic life gets too demanding, you feel a need to take a break and unwind. You realize that you need to slow down a bit, clear your mind and rejuvenate your spirit. That’s when you set out to find your own tranquil.

Some people find tranquility in reading their favourite books or listening to their favourite music or just hanging out with friends. My idea of seeking peace is to pack my bags and travel to locations that are serene and full of life! Helps me get my mojo back.

Dalhousie and Dharamshala are two such destinations in the north of India, in the State of Himachal Pradesh, where you’ll find bliss in the lap of nature, beautiful and serene!

I had been to Himachal once earlier, when I had visited Chail and Kufri last year. I must admit though, that I was left completely spellbound by natural beauty of the place and I decided to explore more of this North Indian State at the very next opportunity that may come my way. So it was quite obvious that it had to be the preferred destination for this year’s summer vacations as well!

Reaching Dalhousie

There is no direct way to reach Dalhousie from Mumbai (the starting point), but there are multiple options to reach Dalhousie either via New Delhi or Amritsar, both by train and by flight. After some research online, I learnt that the recommended route was Mumbai -> Amritsar -> Dalhousie and that’s what we chose.

The choice was between flight and train. Flights are the faster option, but expensive in the holiday season. Trains are slower but comparatively cheaper. We opted for train this time around, in an attempt to save a few bucks. However, the decision soon turned out to be a bit of a disappointment, since not only the forty hour journey seemed like forever, but the maintenance of the AC coaches in the Paschim Express was also not up to the mark, especially the toilets.

But before I proceed further, let me take a moment to mention that I have created an index of our itinerary for this trip for easy reading. Feel free to jump to any section if you do not wish to go through the entire article.

Pit Stop at Amritsar

Golden Temple at night

We reached Amritsar late evening at around half past eight on the following day. Though it was a pit stop, we spent some quality time at Amritsar. Immediately after we checked in to the hotel, we changed and stepped out to visit the iconic landmark of the city – The Golden Temple. The staff at the reception informed us that we should not miss the night view of the temple.

The staff was bang on! The night view of the Golden Temple was truly mesmerizing! We couldn’t lift off our eyes from the magnificent monument of faith for a long time. The yellow metal that dazzled even more in the lights!

Even the street leading to the temple from the main gate was so picturesque, it actually could have passed as a street from a small European town!

In a rush to avoid missing the spectacular night view of the temple, we had skipped dinner at the hotel. So by the time we made an exit from the temple, we were famished and sincerely hoped to get a decent meal since it was already past eleven in the night. Fortunately, we found a restaurant that was still open in the temple campus itself. Without a second thought we grabbed a table and ordered for the famous Amristsari Chhole and Stuffed Kulcha. You should definitely give it a try. We relished on the scrumptious food and left the place, gratified.

Safety Tip: If you are using local autorickshaw for travelling within the city late night, ensure you keep your valuables safe, since petty thieves are known to snatch them from you.

Golden Temple in daylight

Next day we were prepared to leave for Dalhousie. We had hired the same cab that we did on our trip last year to Himachal. The cab driver had got well acquainted with me and my family now. He suggested we should not leave Amritsar without having one look at the magnificent structure in the daylight. Taking the recommendation, we returned to the Golden Temple. The daylight view was equally breathtaking! (unfortunately I lost a few photographs taken during this trip. 🙁 Don’t ask me how!).

Post taking the blessings of the almighty, we also had langar at the huge dining hall inside the campus. the food was simple, yet so delicious! It was not the preparation that made it delectable, but the pure devotion of the devotees who offered their services in making that meal. Truly divine!

Jallianwala Bagh

The golden temple campus also hosts another site of a huge significance in the history of Indian freedom struggle – Jallianwala Bagh. No true Indian who has read the history of Jallianwala Bagh will walk away without paying a visit to this place. From the time we entered the narrow lane leading to the gate, we could hear the screams of the innocent civilians who got massacred by the British police force, echoing from the past. We felt the chill as we entered the gates.

The place, now converted into a garden, was filled with tourists. However, the horror that this place witnessed exactly a century back, was rubbing on us and giving us goosebumps. The Martyr’s well at the center of the garden is still reminiscent of the cruelty inflicted on the victims who preferred death by suicide to getting killed by the bullet from the British guns! The experience did leave us moist-eyed.

Attari-Wagah Border

Since the independence in 1947, the relations between the neighbours – India and Pakistan, have always been on the edge. Despite escalations in tensions over the years and three wars, forces on both the sides have shown restraint most of the times. The beating retreat ceremony held every day at the Attari-Wagah Border between the two countries is a symbol of rivalry as well as harmony between the two nations.

We were about to miss this spectacular event as well, hadn’t it been at the insistence of our cab driver, for which we are so grateful to him! We reached the spot as early as we could, but still couldn’t avoid the huge crowd that had gathered to witness the thrill.

If you are travelling to the Wagah border during the holiday season, make it a point to reach the venue at least 2 hours before the start of the ceremony. That will secure you a better view from the stands.

The ceremony was a perfect show of discipline, coordination and perfection to the dot. Despite the unseasonal rains, the energy levels of the audience was at a peak. Patriotic songs being played on loudspeakers added to the excitement and the audience couldn’t help but sing along and shake a leg to the numbers as well. Patriotic slogans like Vande Mataram and Bharat Mata ki Jai reverberated the atmosphere.

After witnessing an electrifying performance by soldiers from both the sides and chest filled with pride and patriotism, we bid a farewell to the city to proceed to our next destination – Dalhousie.

The Old Colonial Charm

It was a tiring five hour long journey from Amritsar to Dalhousie, on the winding roads through the mountains. It was constantly drizzling throughout the journey and the mercury had dipped quite a bit by the time we reached our hotel.

Dalhousie is a sleepy town developed by the British during the colonial era for their summer retreats. The beauty of the hill station is the brilliant fusion of British architecture and breathtaking scenery. The old world colonial charm is still visible from the bungalows, churches, hotels and other structures. Like I said in the beginning, this is a place where you can connect with your soul.

We stayed at Alps Resort Dalhousie, at Upper Bakrota Hills, Dalhousie. The rooms are large, cozy and offer excellent views of the green valley lush with Pine and Deodar trees.

Stroll down the hill and Tibetan Market

We had a sluggish start to our first day at Dalhousie. The signs of fatigue from our whirlwind tour of Amritsar city a day before and the five hour long road journey to Dalhousie was showing up. We had a leisurely breakfast in our hotel’s lawn, soaking in warmth of the morning sun and feeling the cool breeze. Tranquility at it’s best!

I fancied of relaxing at the hotel for the rest of the day. However, kids insisted that we step out on the lovely day and enjoy the company of the pristine nature. I gave in to their demand and we stepped out to take a stroll down the hills. As we started the descend, we were enjoying the serene view of the quiet winding road, dotted with green trees and colourful flowers on the sides.

At the end of the descend, we paid a visit to the Tibetan market. It’s a closed alley with small shops selling handicrafts neatly lined up on both the sides of the alley. The prices seemed a bit on a higher side, probably because it was the tourist season. We ended up buying just a set of three small-size wooden spice jars after shelling out 500 bucks. Since it was already lunch time, we started the ascend back to the hotel.

Khajjiar – Picture Perfect!

Touted as mini Switzerland, Khajjiar is nothing short of a paradise. A picturesque plateau with a blanket of lush green grass, surrounded by a forest of Pine and Deodar trees and exquisitely cuddled up at the foothills of the majestic snow-capped Dhauladhar mountains, Khajjiar offers a breathtaking view of the nature that is bound to stump you!

The ride down the hill from Dalhousie is approximately 15 kms and takes around 45 to 50 mins through the winding roads to reach from Dalhousie.

Just laying down on the green carpet and admiring the nature’s beauty can be so relaxing and that’s what we did. We took a leisure walk on the plains for a couple of minutes and then just relaxed ourselves for a while, disconnecting from the mortal world and lending ourselves to the tranquility. It was soothing!

There are quite a few fun activities you can do at Khajjiar like Zorbing, Horse Riding, Paragliding, etc. However, we chose to skip all of them for better.

Thereafter we relished on some of the mouth-watering varieties of the good old Maggi noodles for the afternoon meal. I have always wondered if it is the skills of the vendor cooking the noodles or the atmosphere around the place that make the noodles so scrumptious! May be it’s both. But trust me, savuoring on Maggi noodles anywhere in Himachal is a treat that would not want to miss! Post the meal we retreated to our hotel.

Drizzling continued that evening and brought down the temperatures further. We were enjoying the winter chills in the month of May itself. The hotel staff was kind enough to arrange a bonfire for us in the lawns that gave us the much needed warmth and set the tone for the night.

Spiritual Retreat at Dharamshala

Dharmasala in sanskrit is a combination virtue (dharma) and house (sala). It is a place where religious travellers rest and practice virtue. In accordance, Dharamshala is a town in the Kangra district of Himachal Pradesh that is a perfect example of co-existence of two different cultures from two different nations – India and Tibet. A quintessence of peace and harmony!

The journey from Dalhousie to Dharamshala, full of twists and turns, through the quaint valleys, takes a little more than three hours, but not a single moment of boredom! The breathtaking view of the valleys laden with Pine and Deodar trees is stunning!

Tip: You will find quite a few roadside Dhabas along the way, that may not look very inviting, but nonetheless offer some of the delicious varieties of Parathas and Maggi noodles prepared in the special Himachal style.

Mcleodganj: Monks and the Momos

We were put up at The Eden at Mcleodganj. The rooms at the hotel face a valley and provide a stunning view of the snow capped Dhauladhar mountains. The choice was perfect, as it was at Dalhousie! After some freshening up and a bit of a rest, we decided to take a stroll at the market in the evening.

The influence of the Tibetan culture strongly reflects on the town. With buddhist monks inhabiting the streets, to the streets dotted with Buddhist temples and monasteries, it gives you a perfect Himalayan vibe.

And how can we forget the steaming hot Momos? The streets along the main market area are lined with a quite a handful of Momo sellers. We picked up some on our way back, enough to fill in our appetites that evening.

Bhagsunath Falls and Dalai Lama Temple

The next morning we set out to explore two of the popular spots in the town – Bhagsunath Falls and Dalai Lama Temple.

We had to park our cab in the market square since vehicles are not allowed beyond that point owing to the narrow lanes. The walk from there to the falls is barely ten to fifteen minutes. On the way to the falls, we stopped the Bhagsunath temple, where we took the blessings of the Mahadev. As we crossed the temple, we saw the long ascend to the Bhagsu falls filled with a mob of tourists. We immediately dropped the idea and descended instead. At the end of the descend was a stream of fresh water flowing down the hills. We were content with resting for a while on the rocks that slit the flow and dipping our feet in the chlling cold water. Those few minutes were totally refreshing!

We came back to the point where the cab was parked and then proceeded on foot to the Dalai Lama temple. We got a glimpse of the Laman way of life as we explored the temple from the inside. We observed how the young Buddhist students stayed, practiced education and religion together. The halls, the dormitories, the sanctums, and the beautiful view of the valley from the open viewing gallery at the backside of the temple! So peaceful! I could feel the calmness filling in my inner void! A magical experience that left me craving for more!!

On our way back, we shopped for some local merchandise that included a couple of wax perfumes and wooden ornaments.

War Memorial and The Cricket Stadium

Our last day at Dharamshala was reserved for a visit downtown. On the itinerary was the War Memorial on the Ghopuri road and the HPCA Cricket Stadium.

The State War Memorial was built to commemorate the valour displayed by our brave soldiers who sacrificed their lives during various wars throughout the history. The beautiful sprawling garden houses the main monument with three curved walls bearing inscriptions of those who laid down their lives serving the nation.

We walked around the monument trying to grasp as many names as possible, but the list seemed endless. Emotions flooded inside me. I silently paid tribute as my heart went out to all of those Bravehearts and their families. We took a short stroll in the gardens and saw our way out.

The HPCA (Himachal Pradesh Cricket Association) Cricket Stadium is around 1.5 Kms from the War Memorial. Located at a picturesque location with a backdrop of the majestic Dhauladhar mountains, the stadium surely offers a view that cannot be described in words! It is considered as one of the most beautiful Cricket stadiums in the world.

The stadium building also houses a photo gallery, a gymnasium and a cafeteria among other facilities. We spent some time at the stands, clicked a few pictures of the beautiful backdrop and started on a return journey back to the hotel.

Blessings of Goddess Jwalaji

We bid farewell to our mesmerizing experience with the Himachal and started on our journey back home. However, our cab driver suggested we pay a visit to the Jwalaji temple on the way to Amritsar (our boarding train station for the return journey). We took the suggestion and agreed to stop by and take the blessings of Goddess Jwalaji or Jwalamukhi.

The temple is one of the 52 Shaktipeethas (shrines dedicated to various forms of Adi Shakti) in India and has a huge religious and spiritual significance in Hinduism. We were blessed to be at such a significant place. The shrine also has a significance due to a legend of an eternal burning flame inside the main sanctum. The flame represents the deity instead of an idol or an image. The legend says that the flame has been burning since the first day of its known history.

The place definitely has strong spiritual vibes that instantly connects you to the almighty. It was a strange feeling for me. Once more, I could feel the same calmness inside me that I felt at the Dalai Lama temple. I was thus convinced, that your faith in the supreme force does not need a form of a religion.

Adieu

Himachal Pradesh is rightly called Devbhumi (land of gods and goddesses). It’s nothing short of a paradise, with pristine natural beauty and breathtaking landscapes. It is a place where a sense of tranquility wafts on a breeze of fresh air, gliding gently on your skin, filling every cell in your body with a positive energy. The warm sunshine breathes life into the air, scattering vivid colours on nature’s canvas. And the swirling winds whistle the song of love as they flirt with the tall and manly mountains. Heaven!!

How different is the abode of God?

With yet another life-changing experience in the land of gods, we bid adieu to the mountains as we headed back to the mortal world where I had to make a living, with a desire to come back for more buried in my heart.